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QUIET TOWN
LITTLE-KNOWN MALINALCO
OFFERS UNDILUTED CALM, CULTURE
Mexico: Relax in breathtaking, quiet Malinalco
08:42 AM CST on Sunday, January 11, 2009
Stories by LAURENCE ILIFF / The Dallas Morning News
liliff@dallasnews.com
MALINALCO, Mexico - On my journey through the less-populated mountainous region of the state of Mexico
that abuts the nation's capital, I quickly became aware of leaving 18 million people behind.
Cars were few, the vegetation was thick and green, and the bus was moving quickly through the countryside,
stopping only for anybody with a few pesos who needed a ride.
What I couldn't yet fathom was how this led toward anywhere worth going to, especially since my search
was for some corner of tranquility where walking was the principal means of transportation but there were
enough creature comforts for a good night's sleep and some Internet surfing.
I was already worried about finding an ATM and at that moment in the careening bus eventually hooking up
with a restroom. The bus dropped me in Tenancingo, a gray, middle-size town.
A taxi ride finally got me to where I was bound: Malinalco, dubbed by some as the new San Miguel de
Allende. San Miguel was also once a quiet getaway before it was discovered first by American and Canadian
retirees and now by weekend hipsters from Mexico City and elsewhere.
The approach to Malinalco is breathtaking, climbing high into the skies before landing in one of those
zones easily recognized as "magical Mexico," where you can take a deep breath of relief and enjoy the
experience.
There are a number of hotels in Malinalco of varying levels of comfort, but if you can swing $150 a night,
stay at the Casa Mora, where the artist owner, Raúl Mora, personally cares for guests. He was asleep when I
arrived really late one night, but a gentlemanly caretaker was waiting for me.
Casa Mora can be best appreciated in the daytime, with the wonderful mountain views, garden sitting areas,
swimming pool and million small details.
The rooms, such as mine called "Impressionism," are decorated with Mora's paintings. I know little about the
subject, but I found myself looking at them again and again.
The old hacienda-style home has a homey living room containing the lodging's only television, but there is
Internet service in the rooms, and food and drinks can easily be arranged. A hearty breakfast is included in the
price.
Easy as it might be to just hang at the hacienda, there is a very cool town out there with deep Indian cultural
roots and sites to explore.
I walked to downtown, which is liveliest on weekends when there's an outdoor market and the best restaurants
are open. I also like to mix with the locals, who were out and about, relaxing in the shade of a tree at the local
monastery or hiking toward notable Aztec ruins.
The restaurant Las Palomas is the best known for Mexican food and trout, a locally produced specialty.
The Augustinian monastery is a grand sight, with carefully preserved frescoes and a towering grandeur apart
from being just a cool place to walk around.
But save some energy. Getting to the Aztec ruins - mostly a temple carved directly into stone - is a good
hike, and carrying water is recommended. So is identification.
This has never happened to me during 18 years in Mexico, but the park attendant insisted I sign in and
provide identification, which was back in my room. I had to leave without seeing the ruins.
Malinalco is divided into nine barrios (neighborhoods), each with its own church. The streets are rustic, the
houses modest and colorful, and the taxis are also cheap once you've done enough walking and are ready for a
beer downtown.
Malinalco goes to sleep early. Guests planning to enjoy the spacious Casa Mora rooms with a book or
a laptop into the night should stock up in advance on refreshments and munchies.
I have now been to Malinalco twice, and there's a lot of afterglow after a visit there.
It's a fine escape whether you live in Mexico City, Mesquite or Monterey.
There's always a debate in these special corners of Mexico on whether to promote tourism or not, since it can
change the place forever. But Malinalco doesn't seem to have to worry about that. It's still far enough from
main tourist routes to keep many visitors away and too quiet for most.
For now, Malinalco deserves its reputation as a place to re-energize, far from the madding crowd.
The Dallas Morning News, January 11, 2009
Mail from guests, Linda and David Hickman from Dallas, Texas, about Malinalco and CASA MORA, June 12, 2009.
My husband, David, friend, Carla, and I just returned from 4 days in Malinalco, Mexico . The destination was
decided Based on your article , January 11, 2009, in DMN. My Husband is a sculptor and we have entertained
the idea of Traveling to San Miguel for years. We know it is beautiful And we will fall in love with San Miguel,
however, we were Intrigued by the idea of first seeing what it may have Looked like 30-40 years ago. That was
Malinalco. Also,The fact that both Raul and Genoveva Mora are artist and have a wonderful B&B. It was everything
you said in Your article. I Took 350 Pictures (doorways, flowers,Ruins, the market). Raul and Genoveva were the
most Gracious host and have beautiful home to share with guests. An interesting coincidence is that David had just
completed A sculpture of a hummingbird (which took first place in the Bosque Sculpture Expo last month) and the
hummingbird is a Symbol for Malinalco.
I thought there might be an interesting follow up story Here. We eill certainly be telling our artist friends
About Casa Mora and Malinalco. Also, the first two days of our trip we spent in Mexico City. An old friend from
Dallas, Jesus Chairez (who also does an occasional column for the DMN) took us on a whirl-wind tour of the city.
It was Amazing. Jesus has made Mexico City his new home and is Creating a real artist community in the Santa
Maria la Riber Area of the city (another story).
In any case, I just wanted you to know what an impact your Article had on us and what lovely time we had in
Malinalco.
Linda Hickman
MALINALCO WITH THE VISITING NEBRASKANS
By Julie
http://www.midwesternerinmexico.com/2009/04/12/malinalco-with-the-visiting-nebraskans/
April 12, 2009
My parents from Nebraska came for a visit last month, so we decided to show them some
of rural Mexico in addition to the Big Taco, D.F. We spent a couple of nights in
Malinalco, located roughly 40 miles south-ish of Toluca or 60 miles (but - 2 hours)
from Polanco in Mexico City.
Malinalcois a cute town in a gorgeous valley that has a small archaeological site that
overlooks the town from the mountainside. I would assess it as a great place for a
relaxing 1-2 night stay if you're looking to lounge about in nice, warm weather.
If you a dooo-sy type person, meaning someone who needs constant stimulation & multiple sites
to see & activities to do, Malinalco may not be the place for you.
After much research on lodging, we decided to stay ay CASA MORA, a fantastic B&B
located just east of the main "downtown" of Malinalco.` While you could walk from
there to the Centro, it is a bit of a trek, partially on a dirt road, that I would imagine
getting a bit toasty during the midday sun. We generally opted to drive & had no issue
finding parking within a few blocks of the restaurant/archaeological site/museum area.
I completely recommend CASA MORA, a 5-room B&B purpose-built by artist Raul Mora.
The grounds/common areas are lovely, rooms airy & spacious, bathrooms modern
& convenient, and pool warm & beckoning! The breakfasts are served family style with
fresh-squeezed OJ, fruit, pan dulce, frijoles, a different hot dish each day, and what
appeared to be real coffee (unlike the popular instant coffee so pervasive throughout
Mexico!). Two honor bars, one near the pool & one in the house's living room, offer
tasty beverages to quench your thirst. And the gorgeous green yard was a perfect venue
for lying on a chair with a book. During our trip, the rooms were $2,000 pesos a night
(inclusive of breakfast & all taxes), so although it is not a cheap option, we felt we
definitely got our money's worth. The staff were all excellent & friendly, and very
responsive to our email inquiries prior to arrival (unlike other venues in town that we
attempted to look into). For non-Spanish speakers, Raul speaks flawless English so you
don't have to worry about any communication barriers.
Regardless of where you choose to stay, CASA MORA's website has a couple of great
maps that should help you both in getting to Malinalco & getting around town once you
arrive.
EMAIL DE ROLF PETERSEN
Miercoles, 16 de junio de 2010
Es la segunda vez que visitamos su casa. Las dos veces hemos disfrutado mucho la
estancia. Esta vez celebramos algo importante y fue grato hacerlo ahi. El servicio es
muy bueno y Alfredo es, como ustedes, un gran anfitrion.
GRACIAS
Rolf Petersen
EMAIL DE FRANCISCO TERCERO
Martes, 4 de mayo de 2010
Por supuesto que nos fascino Casa Mora en toda la extension de la palabra.
Se han dificultado las cosas pero pronto sabran de mis padres. Les hare una reservacion.
Muchisimas gracias. Tienen un exquisito gusto. Todo mundo me pregunta por las
cachuchas pintadas a mano. Me han encargado que les consiga varias. Seran mis
proximos regalos.
Atentamente
Amy J Andres/Francisco Tercero
Directorio de Hoteles
www.hoteles.com.mx/ |
This prestigious Directory and Travel Guide has featured
Casa Mora since its beginnings. |
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Casa Mora Bed & Breakfast has been part of
the many fine b&b's featured at Lanier
Bed & Breakfasts for a long time now. |
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Magazines: |
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"Beautiful Small Hotels" book, pages 66 and 67
First published in 2008
Publishing house : Publicaciones Ilustra
www.ilustra.info
info@ilustra.info
English: ISBN-13: 978-968-0472-01-8
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Lonely Planet
Mexico City
City Guide
pages 242, 243 and 244
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"Reforma" newspaper
Mexico City
August 9, 2009
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"Reforma" newspaper
Mexico City
July 4, 2008
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Several travel guides from the United States, United Kingdom and France.
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DF por Travesías
La revista de la Ciudad de México
October 1 - 14, 2003 |
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Quattro, El Lujo y Sus Juguetes
March, 2003 |
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Paula
September, 2003 |
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